Tell him what general style you want
When you first sit down in the barber’s chair, try to give him a
general description of the style you want. Are you looking for a Mohawk?
Perhaps you want a more modern style. You might want to bring in a
photo of the look you’d like to achieve. Once you’ve got this covered,
you can then get into the specifics.
Tell him how much you want taken off and where
After you tell your barber what general style you want, tell him
exactly how much you want taken off. Don’t just say, “Give me a trim” or “Just a little off the top.” One barber’s trim is another
barber’s close shave. To avoid getting your hair cut too short, be specific with how much you want taken off. “Short and long
are all relative from barber to barber,” So say things like “an
inch off the top” or “a quarter inch off the side.” If you don’t know
exactly how much you want taken off, let your barber know you don’t
know. What he’ll probably do is just cut a bit off to see if you like
it. Then if you want it shorter, you can go shorter. If you’re a
clippers man, memorize the numbers of the guards you use. Then you can
just walk into the barber and tell him “I want a 2 on the sides and a 3
on the top.”
Tell him if you want a taper
When
you’re at the barber, you’ll likely hear the word “taper” thrown around
quite a bit. If you’ve been nodding your head all this time and saying
“Yeah, give me that!” even though you have no idea what a taper even is,
here’s a quick rundown on what a taper means when it comes to haircuts.
A taper gradually changes your hair length from the top of the head
down to the nape of the neck. The taper usually starts off long at the
top and gets shorter as you go down to the neck. The length of the taper
can vary. You can have a really long taper or a short taper. Most men’s
haircuts involve some sort of taper, but some men prefer that their
hair length be the same all around their head. Make sure to tell the
barber your preference.
Tell him what kind of neckline (or nape) you want
A
lot of men don’t think about how their neckline looks because they
hardly ever see it, but the masses of people who walk and stand behind
you get to eyeball it every day. If you don’t keep it clean and trim, a
great haircut can suddenly look unkempt. When choosing what sort of
neckline you want, you have three options: blocked, rounded, and
tapered. Each has their pros and cons.
Blocked. A blocked nape means cutting a straight
line across the natural neckline. When done correctly, your neckline
will have the appearance of a squared block. If you’re self-conscious
about your skinny chicken neck, a blocked nape can give you the
appearance of a wider, thicker neck. If you already have the neck of a
drill sergeant, go with another type of neckline. The biggest drawback
with blocked napes is that they will appear untidy as the hair grows
out. Once the hair begins to grow under the neckline, the new hair
growth sticks out like a sore thumb. If you decide to go with the
blocked neckline, it’s recommended you go back into the barber once a
week to clean it up.
Rounded. A rounded neckline simply takes the corners
off a blocked nape finish. Like the blocked neckline, the rounded nape
can start to look untidy once hair starts growing below the neckline.
Tapered. Instead of creating a strong line at the
nape of the neck, a tapered neckline follows the natural neckline and
gradually shortens the hair as it gets closer to the bottom of the
neckline. A tapered neckline can slim a wide neck. However, the biggest
advantage to the tapered nape is that as your hair grows out, the
neckline remains blended and neat. You won’t need frequent touch-ups as
you would with a blocked or rounded nape.
Tell him how you want your arches
The spaces between your hairline and your ears are called arches. Here’s how you can trim them.
High arch. You can ask your barber to cut the arch
around your ear higher into your hairline. That will leave more space
between where your hairline ends and your ears begin. Men with smaller
ears might consider a higher arch as it can make the ears appear larger.
The disadvantage with having a higher arch is that it can look messy
and awkward as your hair grows out. And if they’re too high, they make
you look pretty dorky.
Natural arch. For most men, keeping their natural
arch is the way to go. It just
looks better, Tell the barber to keep your natural arch and
he’ll just clean it up with some short trimming.
Tell him how you like your sideburns
Finally, tell him how you like your sideburns. Basic details you
should give him include how long and how thinned out you want them.
Possible side burn lengths include:
- Top of the ear
- Mid-ear
- Bottom of the ear
Ask your barber to trim and thin out your sideburns a bit.
Now quit yapping and listen to your barber for a minute…
After you’ve told the barber what you want, listen to your barber’s suggestions. “A lot of guys come
in with an idea of how they want their hair, but it’s just not possible
with their hair type. Or what they’re asking for won’t look good with
their face. Customers need to come in with an open mind and they have to
be flexible,” Listen to what your barber has to say and
trust his expertise.
Your relationship with your barber is like any good
relationship-communication should be a two-way street. He should listen
to what you’re looking for and give you feedback and advice. A good
barber will ask you if you’re happy with how your hair looks as he goes
along. If your barber doesn’t communicate at all and doesn’t listen to
your preferences, it’s probably time to pick a new barber.
One of the best parts of the barbershop tradition
is that as you partake of this haircut
experience, the barber can become your
buddy, someone you’re not only comfortable with, but look forward to
seeing. After awhile, all you’ll have to say when you sit down in his
chair is, “Give me the usual!”