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Monday, August 15, 2016

Get the Perfect Haircut: How to Talk to Your Barber

Tell him what general style you want

When you first sit down in the barber’s chair, try to give him a general description of the style you want. Are you looking for a Mohawk? Perhaps you want a more modern style. You might want to bring in a photo of the look you’d like to achieve. Once you’ve got this covered, you can then get into the specifics.

Tell him how much you want taken off and where

After you tell your barber what general style you want, tell him exactly how much you want taken off. Don’t just say, “Give me a trim” or “Just a little off the top.” One barber’s trim is another barber’s close shave. To avoid getting your hair cut too short, be specific with how much you want taken off. “Short and long are all relative from barber to barber,” So say things like “an inch off the top” or “a quarter inch off the side.” If you don’t know exactly how much you want taken off, let your barber know you don’t know. What he’ll probably do is just cut a bit off to see if you like it. Then if you want it shorter, you can go shorter. If you’re a clippers man, memorize the numbers of the guards you use. Then you can just walk into the barber and tell him “I want a 2 on the sides and a 3 on the top.”

Tell him if you want a taper

When you’re at the barber, you’ll likely hear the word “taper” thrown around quite a bit. If you’ve been nodding your head all this time and saying “Yeah, give me that!” even though you have no idea what a taper even is, here’s a quick rundown on what a taper means when it comes to haircuts. A taper gradually changes your hair length from the top of the head down to the nape of the neck. The taper usually starts off long at the top and gets shorter as you go down to the neck. The length of the taper can vary. You can have a really long taper or a short taper. Most men’s haircuts involve some sort of taper, but some men prefer that their hair length be the same all around their head. Make sure to tell the barber your preference.

Tell him what kind of neckline (or nape) you want

A lot of men don’t think about how their neckline looks because they hardly ever see it, but the masses of people who walk and stand behind you get to eyeball it every day. If you don’t keep it clean and trim, a great haircut can suddenly look unkempt. When choosing what sort of neckline you want, you have three options: blocked, rounded, and tapered. Each has their pros and cons.
Blocked. A blocked nape means cutting a straight line across the natural neckline. When done correctly, your neckline will have the appearance of a squared block. If you’re self-conscious about your skinny chicken neck, a blocked nape can give you the appearance of a wider, thicker neck. If you already have the neck of a drill sergeant, go with another type of neckline. The biggest drawback with blocked napes is that they will appear untidy as the hair grows out. Once the hair begins to grow under the neckline, the new hair growth sticks out like a sore thumb. If you decide to go with the blocked neckline, it’s recommended you go back into the barber once a week to clean it up.
Rounded. A rounded neckline simply takes the corners off a blocked nape finish. Like the blocked neckline, the rounded nape can start to look untidy once hair starts growing below the neckline.
Tapered. Instead of creating a strong line at the nape of the neck, a tapered neckline follows the natural neckline and gradually shortens the hair as it gets closer to the bottom of the neckline. A tapered neckline can slim a wide neck. However, the biggest advantage to the tapered nape is that as your hair grows out, the neckline remains blended and neat. You won’t need frequent touch-ups as you would with a blocked or rounded nape.


Tell him how you want your arches

The spaces between your hairline and your ears are called arches. Here’s how you can trim them.

High arch. You can ask your barber to cut the arch around your ear higher into your hairline. That will leave more space between where your hairline ends and your ears begin. Men with smaller ears might consider a higher arch as it can make the ears appear larger. The disadvantage with having a higher arch is that it can look messy and awkward as your hair grows out. And if they’re too high, they make you look pretty dorky.
Natural arch. For most men, keeping their natural arch is the way to go. It just looks better, Tell the barber to keep your natural arch and he’ll just clean it up with some short trimming.

Tell him how you like your sideburns

Finally, tell him how you like your sideburns. Basic details you should give him include how long and how thinned out you want them. Possible side burn lengths include:
  • Top of the ear
  • Mid-ear
  • Bottom of the ear
 Ask your barber to trim and thin out your sideburns a bit.

Now quit yapping and listen to your barber for a minute…

After you’ve told the barber what you want, listen to your barber’s suggestions. “A lot of guys come in with an idea of how they want their hair, but it’s just not possible with their hair type. Or what they’re asking for won’t look good with their face. Customers need to come in with an open mind and they have to be flexible,” Listen to what your barber has to say and trust his expertise.
Your relationship with your barber is like any good relationship-communication should be a two-way street. He should listen to what you’re looking for and give you feedback and advice. A good barber will ask you if you’re happy with how your hair looks as he goes along. If your barber doesn’t communicate at all and doesn’t listen to your preferences, it’s probably time to pick a new barber.
One of the best parts of the barbershop tradition is that as you partake of this haircut experience, the barber can become your buddy, someone you’re not only comfortable with, but look forward to seeing. After awhile, all you’ll have to say when you sit down in his chair is, “Give me the usual!”

Wednesday, August 3, 2016

How to Get A Better Haircut

If you've ever received a bad men's haircut, you know how frustrating and embarrassing it can be. A bad haircut for men is sometimes the fault of the barber or stylist doing the work, but the blame often lies with the client. A bad haircut can really mess up your life for a few weeks.  Having unrealistic expectations, poor communication, or an unfriendly disposition can lead to a bad experience. The following are my "insiders tips" on how to get a better haircut.

1. Make an Appointment 

Barbershops and salons which offer appointments normally have a higher standard of customer service. Walk-in driven salons are focused on volume and, as such, are more likely to rush through your service in an effort to do as many haircuts as possible. An appointment ensures your barber or stylist will not feel the need to rush through your haircut and allows ample time to complete the service with attention to detail. It is important to be on time for your appointment and to call ahead well in advance if you're not going to make it.

2. Be Nice

It's always been my opinion that there are three people you never want to make mad -- your hairstylist, your tattoo artist, and your brain surgeon (especially the latter). You should always make an effort to treat your barber or stylist with respect and a friendly attitude, even if the hair cutter is not reciprocating. The person cutting your hair can really ruin your day -- or several weeks, for that matter) -- so it's important that he or she has a positive feeling about you.

3. Listen to Your Stylist

Barbers and stylist are trained and paid to make you look good and will know what styles best frame your face and enhance your features. When your stylist makes a suggestion, give it a try. As guys, we often stay in the comfort zone by getting the same haircut year after year. Don't be afraid to change it up a bit. If you don't like the cut, it will always grow back (well, almost always).

4. Be Realistic

If you're not Brad Pitt, chances are your stylist can't make you look like him. Using a male celebrity as a guide for the type of haircut you're after is fine, but it's important to be realistic in what to expect from a stylist. If your hair is fine and thinning, Denzel Washington latest cut probably won't work on you. Take a magazine photo with you to show your stylist the cut you're after. If it's not realistic, a good barber or stylist will tell you so and then make suggestions on similar alternatives which will work for you.

5. Bring a Photo

Guys and hairstylists often seem like they are speaking different languages, but a photo is always clear. If you've got a particular style you are after, it is always best to take a picture with you to make sure your barber or stylist knows exactly what you want. For some reason, many guys feel uncomfortable taking a photo. Don't be. Your barber or stylist will appreciate the effort and will see exactly what you have in mind. 

6. Tip Well

Most people who cut hair for a living will never admit it, but we almost always spend more time with clients who are good tippers than we do with those who are not. Clients who are generous with gratuity will often receive preferential treatment when booking appointments and receive a greater attention to detail during the service.

7. Find a Barber or Stylist Who Cuts Your Style Well

Here's a comment you'll almost never hear on the golf course: "Ray your fade is fabulous! Who cut your hair?" Getting men to talk about hair is next to impossible, but keep in mind that the best way to find a barber or stylist who suits your style is to ask. Find a guy who has a haircut similar to the cut you're after and just ask him, "Cool cut. Who did it?" He'll consider it a compliment and you'll find a new barber.

8. Show Up Clean and Hat Free

This tip is especially true if you go to a barber for a clipper cut. Most barbers prefer to do clipper work in dry hair that is clean and free of product. Hats also leave a line in the hair that makes it difficult to blend properly. Even if you go to a stylist who will likely wash your hair first, you'll want to show up with clean hair that is free of products and hat lines so your stylist can evaluate you hair and see how it falls naturally.
Of course, maintaining a great looking head of hair involves more than good communication with your barber or stylist, but follow these basic guidelines and you're off to a great start!

Ways to Make Your Barber or Stylist Hate You

 Apparently, there are a lot of ways to make your barber or stylist mad.  Of course, you don't want to anger the person who has your looks in their hands, so I offer, as a public service, even more ways to make your barber or stylist hate you so you'll know what not to do in the salon.

Having Unrealistic Expectations
This is a big one. When seeking a change, be realistic in what you are looking for.  The person who is cutting your hair is not a magician and, while we can often achieve small miracles, we certainly can't give you hair you don't have.  Brining in a photo is one way to help ensure you'll get a better haircut, but make sure to choose a model with similar hair and features as your own.

Being Stinky
Nobody wants to deal with someone who is stinky, so if you smoke or work out before coming for a haircut, it is always a good idea to shower or freshen up a bit.  If you're stinking, you can rest assured your barber or stylist will be trying to get you out of their chair as fast as possible.


Cheap Tipping
Knowing how to tip your barber or stylist is important as tips are a significant portion of their income.  Sure, you're paying for a haircut, but a good tip should reward your haircutter for doing a great job (the better the job, the bigger the tip).  I would never give someone a bad haircut, but you can bet I'll go the extra mile for those I know to be great tippers (and the cheapskates will certainly receive less attention). 



Asking to Make it Shorter
Of course, throughout most haircuts, the client will probably ask for adjustments and that's fine.  But, it is important to have a clear idea of the length of haircut you want before you sit down.  Should adjustments need to be made, suggest them during the cut.  If you wait until the end of the service and say, "can you take a little more off?" that will normally require cutting most of the head again. Asking for more to be taken off after your barber or stylist has completed the entire haircut is a sure fire way of ending up with a rush job.


Being Late to Your Appointment
I love clients who make appointments as it allows me to pace myself throughout the day and spend ample time with each customer.  When a client runs late, I can normally accommodate him, but I have to work faster to make up for lost time if I want to stay on schedule for the rest of my appointments.  Of course, we all realize that stuff happens which is sometimes out of the client's control, but I recommend calling ahead if you're going to be late.  This will enable your hair cutter to move things around a bit, if possible, to ensure you still get adequate time to receive a great service.


Being Rude
 I would never ever be rude to  my barber They could really mess up my day if I make them mad!  It amazes me how some folks will sit down and treat the person who is about to cut their hair with complete disrespect.  If you're having a bad day, always try to leave it at the door.  Do you really want the person who has your looks in his hands to hate you?  Think about it!   Knowing how to talk to your barber or stylist is key!



Making the most of your salon visit requires knowing what you want, great communication, and making sure not to make your barber or stylist hate you!

How to Be Your Barber or Stylists' Favorite Client

It always surprises me that clients sometimes show such disregard for the person who is cutting their hair.  They can often run late, be rude or disrespectful, and not fully appreciate the role the barber or stylist plays in their lives.  Your hair is an important part of your look and self-image, so finding the right person and treating that person well, will help you get the most out of your salon visit and get the best haircut possible.  Following are my insiders tips on how to become your barber or stylists' favorite client.
 
Be Nice
This sounds like a no-brainer, but it is true.  Even if you are not the best tipper or if you have difficult hair, if you are nice to the person cutting it, that goes a long way.  Being behind the chair for eight hours a day is hard work -- it's difficult on the back, feet, and wrists.  You are covered in other people's hair all day.  It can be a pretty tough career, but sometimes that smiling face that walks through the door can make it completely worthwhile.

 We appreciate those clients who go above and beyond basic salon etiquette.   As a barber, I consider it my job to make your day -- not only by making you look better, but making you feel better, too.  My clients who reciprocate that feeling are my favorites!
 
Know What You Want
Few things get on a barber or stylists nerves more than a client who is indecisive.  It's important to know what you want before you sit down.  Of course, a good barber or stylist will help guide you to choose the perfect haircut, but if you're not sure what you are after in the first place, that can lead to miscommunication and frustration.  Once your haircutter has finished the cut, leave it alone (unless there are obvious errors).  It is incredibly frustrating to complete a haircut and have a client say, "Can you take the sides a bit shorter?"   Making this kind of adjustment sounds simple, but to take more off the sides or the top often requires more blending and finishing and can almost result in a complete second haircut.   As barbers or stylists, we often run a tight appointment book and what we earn is directly tied into how many clients we serve.  If you ask for "a little more off," this adjustment will likely be rushed and the end result will probably not look as polished.  Instead of asking for an adjustment, why not say, "this looks great, but next time I think I want to go a little shorter on the sides."

 
Put Your Phone Down
Few things are more distracting than having a client talking or texting during a service.  Communication with the person who is cutting your hair is critical and you can't do that effectively if you are on the phone.  It is also difficult to cut someone's hair when they are juggling a mobile phone from hear to ear or looking down trying to send a text.  Not only that, but it is disrespectful.  Make sure to schedule you salon appointments at a time when you can relax and give your barber or stylist your undivided attention. 

 
Be On Time
As mentioned above, barbers and stylists often work on a tight appointment schedule and nothing is more frustrating than waiting on a client who is running late.  When a client is late, we often have to rush the haircut in order to run on time for the clients who come after.  No barber or stylist wants to rush through a haircut (and you probably don't want them doing that either).  Plan your salon visit to allow you enough time to arrive before your appointment begins.  Of course, we realize things are often out of your control, so if you are running behind, call and let your haircutter know.  Quite often, we can arrange things on the schedule so we can still accomodate you without upsetting the rest of the schedule.

  
Tip Well
This goes without saying, but tips are a big part of a barber or stylists' income, so knowing how to tip is important.   Like you would tip a waiter, the rule is that you tip more for outstanding service -- 15% would be the minimum, but 25% would be my recommendation if you have received great service.  Very few barbers or stylists would admit this, but we do give better service to clients we know tip very well (and those who are cheap, well, let's just say we might move them out of the chair a tad faster).  Around the holidays (when barbers and stylists are often working longer hours), be sure to tip extra well.  Most great barbers or stylists will give you good service whether you are their favorite client or not, but if you really want that extra time and attention, treating your haircutter right, knowing what you want, and rewarding them for outstanding service is important. 

Getting a haircut isn't supposed to be complicated 8 essential rules of barbershop etiquette


You've been doing it since you were old enough to sit still in a chair. But have you been doing it right?
Turns out, there are some things you can do to make your next barbershop visit run smoother, for you and your barber.

1. Don't be impatient. a good barber is probably a busy barber. And a good barber takes his time. They always try to stick to their schedule, but it doesn't always pan out that way, especially with pickier customers. Additionally, don't jump in the chair as soon as the previous client hops out.
2. Don't freak out about hair clippings. "Things will get a little hairy sometimes," but that's what the cape is for. 
3. Don't expect your barber to be a magician. Bringing an inspiration photo is always helpful, but know that the person in the photo has a completely different quality of hair and scalp. Your haircut isn't going to be a dead-ringer for the one in the photo. 
4. Don't nod. Conversation is natural, sometimes even encouraged. But talk with your hands, not the nod of your head. If your barber places his hands on your head to steady it, that's the international sign to stop moving.
5. Don't lay down mandates. Let the barber choose the tools. Don't demand a scissor cut because you think it finishes better. Similarly, don't claim you're growing your hair out — because you wouldn't be sitting for a haircut if that were true. Trust your barber.
6. Don't be too pickyYour barber is happy to adjust the haircut to your liking, but speak up before the cut is finished. You're only paying for one haircut, not five.
7. Don't show up with messy or dirty hair. Comb it, don't slather it with product, and, especially if there's no pre-cut shampoo, make sure it's clean. 
8. Don't be weird about the tip. Use it as a chance to say how much you liked the cut. Also, it's usually preferable to hand the tip to your barber, not the receptionist.